The story of this Rolex Submariner
The Rolex manufacture has defined the standards of the modern dive watch, and the Rolex Submariner is its ultimate incarnation. Within this legendary line, reference 1680 holds a key place in history: launched in the late 1960s, it is the very first Submariner to be equipped with the date function, enhanced by the famous Cyclops magnifying lens on the crystal. This specific model is a so-called “White” Rolex Submariner Date 1680, produced around 1978. It succeeds the initial versions where the model name appeared in red, known by the nickname “Red”. This evolution marks the transition towards a more streamlined aesthetic that would become the norm. For its wearer, it represents the golden age of utilitarian mechanical watchmaking, before the advent of sapphire crystal. Wearing this watch means owning a piece of history, an instrument that accompanied the pioneers of professional diving and continues to fascinate collectors with its raw authenticity. It embodies the adventurous spirit of the brand and stands as a centrepiece in any selection of vintage luxury watches.
Case, calibre and bracelet of this Rolex Submariner
The case of this watch measures 40 mm in diameter and is machined from a solid block of robust stainless steel, typical of Rolex professional standards. It is topped by a graduated bezel with a black aluminium insert, whose patinated appearance over time reinforces the vintage character of the piece. Unlike a modern bezel, this one has a unique charm specific to older watches. The matte black dial is adorned with tritium hour markers, whose luminescent material has taken on a warm cream tone that is highly sought after by enthusiasts. The Mercedes hands sweep across this iconic face, protected by a plexiglass crystal that is far more domed and warm than today’s flat crystals. The self-winding movement powering this timepiece is the legendary calibre 1575, renowned for its indestructible reliability and chronometer certification. The watch is fitted with a steel Oyster bracelet whose design ensures comfort and security, whether worn over a diving suit or under a shirt cuff. This is a model in which every detail, from the rotating bezel insert to the screw-down caseback, exudes functionality.
Why this Rolex watch
Acquiring this Rolex Submariner 1680 is a wise choice for anyone wishing to enter the world of collecting with a dependable asset. Unlike reference 16800, which succeeded it and introduced the sapphire crystal, the 1680 preserves the inimitable charm of plexiglass, offering unique visual distortions. While the value of the “Red” models has soared, the “White” version remains more accessible while still enjoying a rising price curve, as it is becoming increasingly rare in good condition. This is a pre-owned watch with genuine investment potential. It is often regarded as the “first” true modern Submariner Date while still being an older piece. Its “White” configuration is less exuberant than the Red, making it a connoisseur’s watch, subtle and elegant. Choosing this model means favouring the authenticity of a bygone era over the cold perfection of contemporary watches. Demand for these historical Rolex watches never wanes, ensuring excellent liquidity.
Delivered set and condition
This 1978 piece is delivered on its own, which is common for watches of this age. The condition is rated as very good, with a thick case and bevels still visible. The dial is immaculate, with no lacquer defects, and the tritium on the hour markers matches perfectly with that on the hands. This is an accurate description of a piece that has crossed the decades with care. The workshop has checked the movement to ensure its precision. For the buyer, this means acquiring a Rolex Submariner Date 1680 that is ready to wear, with the ideal patina one expects from such a reference.
Warranty and delivery
This watch benefits from our sales guarantees, including a 2-year warranty offered by The Swiss Collector. It is available for immediate collection from one of our 40 points of sale in Switzerland or can be shipped via secure, tracked and insured delivery. We offer a rigorous selection to enable you to buy with complete confidence. Do not hesitate to discover this horological icon in our boutique.
* Very good condition – watch already worn and polished. Light external signs of wear. Case and bracelet in excellent overall condition.