The history of this Rolex Submariner
The House of Rolex has forged its legend by creating instruments capable of conquering the abyss, and the Rolex Submariner is its absolute ambassador. However, within this prestigious lineage, there is a ghost reference, produced during an extremely short period between 1987 and 1988: the Rolex Submariner 168000, nicknamed Triple Zero. This transitional model is crucial in the brand's history, as it marks a major technical evolution invisible to the naked eye but essential for longevity: the switch from 316L steel to 904L steel, which is far more resistant to corrosion. While the reference 16800 introduced sapphire crystal, the 168000 sublimates this advance with a new alloy that will become the Manufacture's standard. This watch represents the tipping point between vintage matte watches and the modern era of robust luxury timepieces. It has a fascinating aesthetic feature known as the Spider dial. This flaw in the original lacquer, which cracks over time to form a spider's web, has become a prized visual signature, transforming each piece into a unique work of art. To own this Rolex Submariner Date is to hold an insider's secret, a piece that tells the story of Rolex's quest for perfection.
Case, caliber and bracelet of this Rolex Submariner 168000
The 40 mm case, cut from this innovative 904L steel for its time, retains the classic lines that made the model so successful. It is topped by a unidirectional rotating bezel with black aluminum insert, an indispensable tool for divers. The black dial is the real protagonist of this timepiece: its surface features that famous Spider pattern, where fine lines extend from the center outwards, capturing the light in a totally unpredictable and artistic way. The circled hour-markers and Mercedes hands, typical of the Submariner, ensure perfect legibility, protected by a sapphire crystal featuring the cyclops for the date at 3 o'clock. Beneath this distinctive dial beats the calibre 3035 self-winding mechanical movement. This beating heart, equipped with 27 jewels and a Breguet balance-spring, offers a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and a power reserve of 48 hours. It also offers quick date setting, a welcome convenience compared to previous calibers. The steel Oyster bracelet, with its folding clasp, ensures a secure and comfortable fit, complementing the sporty allure of this historic ref.
Why this Rolex watch
The Rolex Submariner 168000 is one of the most interesting references for the discerning collector. With production lasting only about nine months, it is mathematically much rarer than a classic 168000 or a 16610. This model offers undeniable heritage value, especially with the Spider Dial configuration, which cannot be reproduced. Unlike a modern watch you might find at a retailer, this piece has a soul and a patina that only time can shape. Choosing to buy a Rolex Submariner in this configuration means opting for rarity and exclusivity. It's a vintage occasion that stands out for its singular history. What's more, opting for a specialist rather than generalist platforms guarantees cutting-edge expertise on these specificities. For fans of the reference 168000, watches with character, this is the accessible Holy Grail. It combines the best of both worlds: vintage charm with its textured dial and the structural reliability of modern steel.
Delivered contents and condition
This 1987 collector's item is delivered alone, accompanied by a generic box offered by our house. It is in very good condition for its age, although the dial shows the typical and sought-after cracks of lacquer ageing. The buyer should be aware that this network of cracks is a collector's feature and not a damage. The case has retained its volume and the bracelet is in good condition. Every vintage watch passing through our workshop undergoes a rigorous inspection. Authenticity is guaranteed, assuring you that all parts, from the movement to the case, are as they left the factory at the time.
Warranty and delivery
This watch benefits from a 2-year warranty provided by The Swiss Collector, covering the correct functioning of the mechanism. Unlike a sale between private individuals, here you have the security of a professional. We invite you to purchase this rare timepiece with complete peace of mind: it can be collected from one of our 40 points of sale in Switzerland, or shipped via a secure and insured service. An in-house certificate can be provided on request to certify the replacement value for your insurance purposes. We ensure that the origin is verified for total peace of mind.
* Very good condition - watch already worn and polished. Slight signs of external wear. Case and bracelet in excellent overall condition.
