The history of this Rolex Datejust
Rolex launched the Datejust in 1945 to mark its 40th anniversary. This model quickly established itself as the first water-resistant automatic wristwatch chronometer to display the date in a window on the dial. The reference 16220 marks a period of technical transition for the manufacture. It is distinguished by its guilloché bezel, machined directly from stainless steel. This distinctive finish offered a subtle, textured alternative to the classic smooth bezel or the fluted gold version. Production of these guilloché bezels ceased definitively in the early 2000s. Today, this feature gives the watch a neo-vintage identity that is highly sought after by connoisseurs of historical details.
Case, movement and bracelet of this Datejust
The 36 mm Oyster case is crafted from stainless steel with the perforated lugs typical of that era. It frames a deep black dial with a smooth matt finish. The applied white gold hour markers are accented with Tritium dots. Over time, this luminescent material has developed a uniform eggshell patina that complements the filling of the straight hands. The date is displayed at 3 o’clock beneath the Cyclops lens set into the flat sapphire crystal. The movement is powered by the self-winding Calibre 3135, oscillating at 28,800 vibrations per hour. This chronometer-certified movement offers a power reserve of 48 hours. The watch is secured to the wrist by a 5-link stainless steel Jubilee bracelet, featuring a finish that alternates between a central polish and a brushed finish on the outer links.
Why this Rolex watch
The appeal of this design lies in its visual balance and authenticity. The black dial absorbs light and highlights the mechanical texture of the guilloché steel bezel. The neo-vintage look is enhanced by the presence of tritium, whose warm patina softens the austerity of the monochrome design. A timepiece from the early 1990s that retains such aesthetic coherence appeals to collectors with an eye for bygone manufacturing details. Its profile, which is both smart and practical, makes it a particularly versatile watch for everyday wear.
Contents supplied and condition
This watch is supplied complete with its original presentation box and official perforated documents dated November 1993, as well as its period manuals. This set confirms the watch’s traceability since its initial purchase. The case has recently been polished, restoring the shine to the surfaces without altering the original geometry of the lines. The Jubilee bracelet exhibits a natural softening of the hollow links, entirely consistent with the wear and tear expected of a watch of this generation.
Warranty and delivery
The Swiss Collector guarantees the authenticity of this piece with a 24-month mechanical warranty. We accept returns within 10 days in accordance with our terms and conditions. As Switzerland’s leading second-hand retailer, backed by the largest network of shops, we offer online booking for a fitting and in-store collection, or fully secure international delivery.
* Very good condition – watch has been previously worn and polished. Slight signs of external wear. Case and strap in excellent overall condition.