BREGUET TYPE XX NAVAL AVIATION

The history of this Breguet Type XX Aéronavale

This pre-owned Breguet Type XX Aéronavale is a direct descendant of a military timepiece. In the early 1950s, the French Air Force was looking for a robust wrist chronograph capable of resetting the timer to zero and restarting it with a single press. In 1954, Breguet received an order for 1,100 watches, which were delivered between 1955 and 1959 under the code name Type 20. In 1958, the Naval Aviation branch of the French Navy, in turn, ordered 500 pieces, all of which were delivered on the same day, 13 January 1960. The company relaunched the model in the mid-1990s with the reference 3800ST/92/9W6, named ‘Aéronavale’ in homage to these ship-based pilots. Like the military Type 20 models, it has no date window, whereas the Transatlantique version does.

Case, movement and strap of this Type XX Aéronavale

The 39 mm polished steel case features Breguet’s signature fluted middle section, slender lugs and a crown stamped with the brand’s ‘B’, flanked by two pushers. The rotating bezel, graduated to 60 minutes, bears engraved and blackened numerals and a luminescent triangle at 12 o’clock, which serves as a reference point for flight time. The matt black dial features large Arabic numerals and luminescent hands, as well as three blued sub-dials: the small seconds at 9 o’clock, the 30-minute totaliser at 3 o’clock and the 12-hour totaliser at 6 o’clock. The ‘T Swiss T’ marking at 6 o’clock indicates tritium luminescence. The contrast of white against the matt black ensures immediate readability, both in daylight and in the dim light of a cockpit. The Calibre 582, an automatic movement based on a Lemania calibre, powers the flyback chronograph and offers a power reserve of 48 hours. The crystal is sapphire, and the engraved solid caseback indicates a water resistance of 100 metres. The brown alligator strap with ecru topstitching fastens with a steel folding clasp, featuring a Breguet-signed loop.

Why this Breguet watch

On the second-hand market, this Type XX represents the third generation of the model, which is no longer in production. The current range features different calibres and case sizes, whilst this version retains the 39 mm case, the date-less dial and the graduated bezel that link it to the chronographs of the 1950s. The flyback function allows measurements to be taken in succession without stopping the chronograph – the very purpose for which the function was designed. It also offers an introduction to the world of Breguet through a sporty collection, complete with a certificate of origin documenting its first sale in Switzerland.

Contents and condition

This Breguet is supplied as a Full Set, in its grey case with a curved lid featuring an illustration of a seaplane, along with its outer box, its certificate of origin and warranty dated March 2004, its Breguet booklets and a green leather wallet. It has recently been polished, restoring a crisp finish to the case and bezel, and is in very good overall condition. The dial, hands and luminescent hour markers show no visible signs of wear, and the alligator strap bears only slight signs of wear.

Warranty and delivery

The Swiss Collector guarantees the authenticity of this watch, which is covered by a 24-month warranty. We accept returns within 10 days in accordance with our terms and conditions. As Switzerland’s leading second-hand retailer, backed by the largest network of shops, we offer online booking for a fitting and collection in-store, or fully secure international delivery.