The story of this Rolex Datejust
In 1945, Rolex introduced a timepiece that would redefine watchmaking standards. Launched to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the brand founded by Hans Wilsdorf, it became the first automatic and waterproof chronometer watch to display the date in an aperture. This major innovation answered the needs of professionals requiring instant everyday legibility of the date. Reference 16220 embodies a fascinating transition in the evolution of this iconic model. Its aesthetic is based on a historical particularity highly sought after by collectors with its engine-turned steel bezel. Originally designed to offer a robust and sporty alternative to the classic fluted bezel in solid gold, this complex finish with textured reflections was definitively discontinued by the manufacture in the early 2000s. This technical detail gives the piece a true visual identity while fully respecting the brand’s DNA.
Case, calibre and bracelet of this Datejust
The stainless steel armour displays a classic 36 mm diameter, a 12 mm thickness and a 44 mm lug-to-lug distance. This format adapts with perfect balance to both male and female wrists. The case with polished flanks houses a superb silver dial with sunburst finish, catching the light with every movement. The applied indexes and straight white-gold hands are accompanied by discreet tritium lume plots whose patina bears witness to time. The flat sapphire crystal incorporates the famous Cyclops lens above the date. The engine-turned bezel crowns the whole with presence. Power is provided by the robust self-winding calibre 3135 beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour. This 31-jewel mechanism offers a 48-hour power reserve. It guarantees COSC-certified precision and water resistance tested to 100 metres. The watch is fitted with its Jubilee steel bracelet with 5 firmly articulated links and secured by a folding clasp.
Why this Rolex watch
The appeal of this specific piece lies in its ideal configuration at the crossroads of eras. It subtly combines the charm of a vintage dial with the contemporary reliability of a scratch-resistant crystal and a manufacture movement renowned for its longevity. The growing rarity of the engine-turned bezel makes this timepiece all the more coveted by purists. While recent variations shine through their sophistication, this version seduces with its luxurious tool-watch allure and its pure aesthetic. Absent from official showcases today, it represents a fine opportunity at The Swiss Collector for enthusiasts wishing to acquire a functional and elegant piece of history.
Contents delivered and condition
Produced in 1989 according to its numbering, this watch stands out through a particularly complete original set. It is delivered with its green textured box, its outer box, its original punched chronometer certificate, its instruction manuals, its card holder and one additional link. A service card from March 2025 confirms recent and rigorous maintenance. The piece is in very good overall condition and shows discreet micro-scratches inherent to respectful use. This level of preservation highlights the care given by its former owners.
Guarantee and delivery
The Swiss Collector guarantees the absolute authenticity of this piece and covers you with a 24-month guarantee. We accept returns within 10 days subject to our conditions. Leader in pre-owned luxury in Switzerland and backed by the largest network of boutiques, we offer online reservation for a fitting and collection in store or fully secured international shipping. The watch is in very good condition, already worn and polished, with light external signs of wear. The case and bracelet remain in excellent overall condition.
