The history of this Cartier Santos Galbée
The Cartier Santos Galbée is descended from the watch designed by Louis Cartier in 1904 for the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to tell the time whilst flying without letting go of the controls of his aircraft. Secured to the wrist by a leather strap, the Santos was one of the first men’s wristwatches, and its square bezel with visible screws marked a departure from the round pocket watches of the time. The Maison launched it in 1911, then reintroduced it in 1978 with a steel and gold bracelet featuring screws, establishing the design we recognise today. In 1987, the Santos Galbée adopted this design with a slightly domed case that follows the curve of the wrist, hence its name. At the turn of the 2000s, Cartier added a compact chronograph to the range, the reference 2425, which collectors refer to as the Chronoflex. It is recognisable by its two mushroom-shaped pushers, positioned on either side of the crown, which give it a retro look without making the case look bulky.
Case, calibre and strap of this Santos Galbée
The 29 x 41 mm square case is made of brushed steel, topped with an 18-carat yellow gold bezel secured by eight steel screws. The white dial features the Maison’s Roman numerals, with the Cartier signature discreetly inscribed within one of them, a railway-track minute scale and a three-digit date window at 12 o’clock. Two square sub-dials track the chronograph’s 30 minutes and 12 hours, whilst the central seconds hand measures the seconds. The blued hands are clearly legible against the light background. The octagonal crown is set with a blue cabochon. The watch is powered by a quartz chronograph movement, which remains accurate even after several days without being worn. The steel case back is secured by eight screws. The brushed steel Santos bracelet echoes the yellow gold screws on the bezel and fastens with a Cartier-signed folding clasp.
Why this Cartier watch
This Santos Galbée combines the most recognisable Santos design – with visible screws and the contrast between steel and gold – with a chronograph function rarely found in such a compact format. Measuring 29 mm in width, it sits equally well on a slender wrist as on a wider one, and its slim profile allows it to slip easily under a cuff. This model is no longer in the brand’s catalogue, and the second-hand market is now the only way to acquire it. Its quartz movement makes it a low-maintenance watch, requiring no daily upkeep, and the chronograph is easily put to use for timing a journey or a meeting.
Contents and condition
This Chronoflex comes in a Cartier presentation box, with a Cartier pouch containing the user’s manual and a blank Cartier certificate, as well as three spare links to adjust the bracelet. The watch is in very good condition. It has been worn, but signs of wear are minimal and limited to the exterior; the gold bezel and dial are clean, and both the case and bracelet are in excellent overall condition. The chronograph, its two sub-dials and the date display have been checked and are in working order.
Warranty and delivery
The Swiss Collector guarantees the authenticity of this watch, which is covered by a 24-month warranty. We accept returns within 10 days in accordance with our terms and conditions. As Switzerland’s leading second-hand watch retailer, backed by the largest network of shops, we offer online booking for a fitting and collection in-store, or fully secure international delivery.
* Very good condition – watch has been worn. Slight signs of external wear. Case and strap in excellent overall condition.